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INTRODUCTION
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The
City of Kings
From the beginning Lima, the city
of kings and viceroys, was an oasis of culture and elegance in the
American Indies. Just a few decades after its foundation, Lima already
rivalled Mexico as the most
important metropolis in the Spanish-American empire Baroque and
Renaissance churches, mansions, palaces, universities and archdioceses filled Lima. The cultural scene positively hummed as early as the
beginning of the seventeenth century, when Lima had but a population of
just 25,000.
Fishermen and hunter-gatherers, ruled
over by a local chieftain, Taulichusco, originally settled the ancient
Rímac Valley, "the speaker"
in the Quechua language. It was here that on January 15, 1535, Spanish
Conqueror Francisco Pizarro founded the city of Lima. In less than 70
years, Lima was to concentrate all the power and wealth of all trade and
cultural activity in the Vice-regency: it had become, in effect, the
most important city in the Americas.
In the eighteenth century, Lima fell into decadence and instability due
mainly to the creation of the Vice-regency of Río de la Plata, who took
over the great mines of Alto Perú (now Bolivia). Things came to a head
in 1821, when Peru declared its independence as a Republic. At the start of
the twentieth century, during la Belle Époque (1915-30), the city
enjoyed a privileged position once more as one of the most modern cities
on the continent.
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In
the 1940s, as growing waves of migrants left the countryside bound for
Lima, the capital became a miniature replica of the country itself,
-a melting pot of people and cultures. Today, with a population of 6.5
million, Lima is home to a quarter of the country's population and nearly
two-thirds of Peru's economic and industrial activity.
More
than 460 years have passed since its founding as a Spanish city, and
Lima today has become synonym of Peru's mestizo or mixed-blood heritage,
one that baffles those in the know and first-time visitors alike. In
fact, this quandary is one of Lima's greatest features. This alchemy
of influences is most clearly seen in the city's innovative cuisine,
which gourmet's rate as one of the worlds finest. UNESCO meanwhile,
ranks Lima's architecture as a world heritage site, while the city's
inhabitants, fun-loving and skilful, have become experts at adapting
to change.
Furthermore, Lima offers tourists superb
museums, dozens of art galleries, theatre productions and every kind of
top-notch cultural exhibition, modern shopping malls and recreational areas,
in addition to archaeological and natural attractions.
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Lima
overlooks the Pacific Ocean, and is subject to two well-defined seasons.
Winter, from May to September, with temperatures dipping to 18°
C and humidity running off the charts, making it feel extremely chilly,
especially when a light drizzle sets in. Summer, from December through
March, with sunny days and temperatures often topping 30° C. It
rarely rains in Lima.
The city
of Lima is easily reached overland and by air. The capital is linked to
all the cities on the coast by the modern Pan-American Highway, that runs
along the coastline. The northern stretch runs for 1,370 km from Tumbes,
on the Ecuadorian border, to Lima, while the South Pan-American Highway
runs 1,291 km from Lima to Tacna, on the Chilean border. The capital is
connected to the Andes via the Central Highway (Carretera Central) and the
Paramonga-Huaraz route, both paved, and via rough-grade roads running from
Cañete-Yauyos-Huancayo, Huacho-Oyón-Huánuco and Lima-Canta. As the gateway
to Peru, Lima features an international airport, which has regular flights
to major cities around the world as well as dozens of domestic flights.
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Plaza
Mayor or Main Square
The site of the Spanish
founding of Lima by Francisco Pizarro, the Plaza Mayor, has witnessed
some of the most important historic events in Peru. Small shops and
busineses
originally surrounded the Plaza Mayor, or Main Square. It was also used
as a bullring and scaffold to execute those condemned by the Holy Inquisition.
More than a century later, a bronze fountain, built in the centre in
1651, still stands today. It was in this plaza that Peruvians declared
their independence in 1821. The Presidential Palace sits on the northern
side of the square, while the Cathedral and Archbishop's Palace are
on the East Side and the City Hall is located to the west.
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Lima
Cathedral
Built in
1625 in Baroque Renaissance style and rebuilt after an earthquake in 1940,
the Cathedral is a veritable work of colonial art. While its façade is
somewhat austere, the Cathedral houses magnificent Churriguerra altars
beautifully carved wooden choirstalls and gold-leaf altars, in addition to
a unique collection of oil paintings and sculptures from the seventeenth
and eighteenth centuries
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| Iglesia
de San Francisco
This is a striking
colonial complex consisting of a church, the convent of San Francisco
and the chapels of El Milagro and La Soledad. Built in the seventeenth
century, the complex's cloisters and patios are decorated in blue Sevillian
tiles, while there is also a well-stocked library. This complex houses
the Religious Art Museum and the Zurbarán Room. The church is
built on top of a network of underground tunnels or catacombs, which
were used as a cemetery during colonial times, and today is open to
the general public.
Iglesia de
Santo Domingo
Construction
of this church, which features three naves, got underway when Lima was
founded, however it was not finished until the late sixteenth century.
The church has superb choirstalls, carved in cedar, as well as an imposing
dome. The convent cloisters are lined in Sevillian mosaic tiles, while
the chapel is filled with Baroque sculptures. It was here that San Marcos
University, the first in South America, was founded in 1551
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Iglesia
de La
Merced
Built
in the eighteenth century, this church is an excellent example of the
splendour of Spanish colonial architecture. With a Churriguerra façade,
the church is filled with works of art, such as the main altar dedicated
to the Virgen de las Mercedes, patron saint of the Peruvian armed forces,
and a beautiful sacristy decorated with Arabesque tiles. La Merced houses
one of the finest collections of colonial oil paintings and carvings
in Lima.
Casa
Riva Agüero
Built
in the nineteenth century, the house was donated to Lima's Catholic
University by the last of the original owners' descendants, Don José
de la Riva Agüero. Today it houses the Riva Agüero Institute,
which in turn features vast historic archives and a fine library. It
is also the site of the Museo de Arte Popular, the Folk Art Museum.
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Palacio
Torre Tagle
Built
in 1730 by the Marquis of Torre Tagle, treasurer of the Royal Spanish
fleet, the palace is one of the finest examples of colonial architecture
to be found in Peru. Its façade features two superb carved wooden
balconies and a Baroque stone doorway. The interior decorated with Moorish
arches, Sevillian tiles and soaring coffered ceilings are particularly
noteworthy. Today it is the seat of the Foreign Affairs Ministry.
Casa Aliaga
Built
on top of the foundations of a pre-Hispanic temple, this mansion has
been inhabited since 1535 by the descendants of the Aliaga clan, one
of Lima's well-established families, and is the oldest standing mansion
in Lima. It features huge, luxurious salons, coffered ceilings and a
beautiful inner patio, a characteristic of great colonial mansions in
Lima. Today, it is used for a variety of cultural events.
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ENVIRONMENTS
NORTH AND NORTHEAST
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Chancay
and Huacho
Chancay,
87 km north of Lima, features an odd castle sprawling across 10,000
m2 that houses an interesting exhibition of mummies, textiles and huacos
(pottery) dating back to the Chancay culture. Further north, the province
of Huaura features a string of beaches, its main natural attraction.
Moreover, 5 km south of Huacho (149 km north of Lima) lie the El Paraíso
lagoons, a haven for egrets, coots, flamingos, pelicans, ducks and other
migratory species such as the Arctic tern, which flies over from France.
Further north, at 175 km of the Pan American Highway lies the Albufera
de Medio Mundo, wetlands nearly 7 km long which are very popular with
canoeists and fishermen. A few kilometres north, after crossing
through
a clutch of towns and fishing coves, one can visit the pre-Inca fortress
of Paramonga (Chimú culture), located in the province of Barranca.
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Lomas
de Lachay
Nestled in the Andean foothills off kilometre 105 of
the North Pan-American Highway, this national reserve is a unique Eco-system
known as coastal foothills (lomas costeras). Stretching across an area of 5,070
hectares, these desert hills turn bright green in winter
thanks to the condensation that forms from the rolling mist. The area, a haven
for a varied range of animals and plantlife, features signposted trails, picnic
areas and a visitors' centre. All in all, it is an ideal spot for nature lovers,
and should be visited from August through October, when the hillsides are
completely carpeted with bright green undergrowth and brightly-coloured flowers.
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Churín
Some 210 km Northeast
of Lima, up the North Pan-American Highway and then branching off a
detour heading east, lies Churín, a picturesque inter-Andean
village famous for its hot springs. Every weekend, hundreds of visitors
flock here in search of fresh air, spectacular highland landscapes and
the health benefits from taking a swim in the thermal baths. From Churín
the road climbs further up into the Andes, winding its way through countless
traditional highland villages. These include Andajes, which is famous
for its manjarblanco cream, and the archaeological sites of Ninash,
Kukun, Antasway and Kuray. At the village of Huacho sin Pescado (at
3,200 meters above sea level), that lies at the foot of the imposing
peak of Mount Yarahuayna, one can find the pre-Inca ruins of Antamarca
and Chaulín, both of which are well preserved. Fishermen will
delight in Lake Wayo, that is well-stocked with trout, while mountain
climbers can tackle the awe-inspiring peaks studding the Cordillera
Raura range, that rise above 5,750 meters.
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ENVIRONMENTS
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
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Forests
of Zárate
At kilometre 56
of the Central Highway (Carretera Central) lies the town of San Bartolomé,
from where a six-and-a-half hour hike leads to the forests of Zárate
(3,100 meters), a highland grazing area. The trail is narrow and zigzagging,
but crosses through several picturesque villages until it reaches this
balmy forest teeming with wildlife. The area has given life to native
tree species including the San Pedro cactus, used by medicine men for
its hallucinogenic effects. The ideal time to visit the forest is from
April through June.
Canta
and Obrajillo
These picturesque
towns lie between 104 and 106 km east of Lima up the valley of the Chillón
River. Surrounded by fields of crops and green hills, the area is ideal
for camping. Canta, at 2,800 meters and linked to the capital by a paved
road, is famous for its breath-taking scenery and dairy products. Obrajillo,
3 km from Canta, is smaller and quieter, and is popular with campers
for its peaceful countryside by the banks of the river, an area carpeted
with wildflowers. Its main square features superb colonial houses with
ancient wooden balconies. Some 15-km from Canta lie the pre-Hispanic
ruins of Cantamarca (3,500 meters), built by the Atahuallos culture.
The locals gather here to celebrate the Fiesta de la Cruz (Festival
of the Cross), held from May 1-3. Near Canta, between the Yanacocha
gorge and the town of Huaros grow two groves of the Puya Raimondi, a
cactus-like plant. The Puya Raimondi, which can grow more than 10 meters
high, produces around 17,000 flowers, a world record. It flowers just
once in its 100-year lifetime, before releasing its seeds and dying.

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ENVIRONMENTS
SOUTH AND SOUTHEAST
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Pachacámac
Just 31 km down
the South Pan-American Highway, the ancient Columbian temple of Pachacámac
rears over the fertile valley of Lurín. Built largely from adobe
mud bricks, the temple housed an oracle that was considered, along with
Cuzco, to be the main ceremonial centre in pre-Hispanic Peru. Pilgrims
flocked here from far away to render homage to the god Pachacámac,
believed to be the creator of the world and its creatures. The Inca
section (1440-1533) is the best-preserved part of the archaeological
complex. The site includes palaces, plazas and temples that have been
painstakingly restored, and even includes an on-site museum that houses
an interesting collection of pre-Hispanic relics.
The
Southern Beaches
The
summer hotspot for Lima inhabitants. Starting at around 35 km of the
South-Pan American Highway, a string of beautiful beaches stretches
down 100 km along the coastline to the city of Cañete (135 km
south). Beaches are either sandy or pebbled, while some feature perfect
waves for surfing (Señoritas, Peñascal, Pico Alto, Punta
Rocas), others (El Silencio, Embajadores) enjoy calmer seas. Many beaches
have become seaside resorts (La Quebrada, Santa María), while
others provide services such as hotels, restaurants and discos (Punta
Hermosa, San Bartolo). Other beaches have preserved their natural surroundings,
something that appeals to campers (Chepeconde, Gallardo, Cerro Colorado).
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Cañete
and Lunahuaná
The
Valley of Cañete is located 135 km south of Lima on the South
Pan-American Highway. The area is blanketed in sweeping, fertile and
well-irrigated croplands, especially cotton fields, sweet potato, asparagus
and marigold. The valley is blessed with a pleasant climate that has
made it a popular spot with Lima inhabitants. During the summer time,
the local beaches (La Ensenada, Cerro Azul and Cerro Colorado) fill
up with swimmers and surfers. Just 40 km east, along a recently-paved
road, lies Lunahuaná, a pleasant farming town that in recent
years has become a Mecca for adventure-sports lovers, offering rafting,
mountain-biking, parasailing and hiking. But not everything is adrenaline
in this usually sleepy area, which also features archaeological sites,
vineyards and outdoor restaurants.
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Rímac
and Plaza de Acho
Known
as the district "under the bridge", this is one of
the most traditional areas of the downtown Lima and features streets
that are notably Sevillian in style. Located on the banks of the Rímac
river, on the other side from the original city centre, Rímac
was known in colonial times as the Barrio de Indios San Lázaro
(Indians' quarter), and is linked to the city by centuries-old bridges.
The cradle of Creole culture, Rímac is home to some of Lima's
best-known Creole clubs, or peñas, and traditional restaurants.
The district features some extraordinary spots like the Alameda de los
Descalzos, the Paseo de Aguas, the Quinta Presa and several squares
and churches. In addition, Rímac is home to the Plaza de Acho
(1768), one of the oldest bullrings in the Americas. Every October,
Acho hosts the famous Señor de los Milagros bullfight season,
which draws many of the world's top bullfighters to participate.
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Barrios
Altos and Barrio Chino
One of the most
traditional quarters of downtown Lima, this district was home to composers,
intellectuals, musicians and Bohemian types, who took criollismo to
new heights. Here one still finds some of the best examples of colonial
and republican architecture that includes the Quinta Heeren, an area
with its own plaza; the Casa de Trece Monedas, a majestic nineteenth-century
residence; the Iglesia de las Trinitarias and the Molino de Santa Clara.
Lima's Chinatown, bordering the Mercado Central, is home to oriental
tearooms, and restaurants serving up exquisite varieties of Chinese
food.
Callao
and La Punta
Located 14 km west
of Lima, Callao is the country's largest port. Founded in 1537 to serve
as a site for loading the treasures of ancient Peru on to galleons headed
for Spain, Callao features the pentagon-shaped fort of Real Felipe,
built in the eighteenth century to fend off attacks by pirates and corsairs.
Later, the fort was to play a major role in the war of independence.
Callao tapers off in the district of La Punta, a long peninsula that
juts out into the Pacific Ocean and is home to the Navy base, a few
pebble beaches, the old beachfront drive and residential areas in vogue
in the 1940s and 1950s. A few kilometres off the coast lies Isla San
Lorenzo an island featuring pre-Hispanic burial grounds, and the islet
of Frontón, once the site of a maximum-security prison.
Barranco
and Chorrillos
Together with the
neighbouring district of Chorrillos, Barranco, a few decades ago, was
the fashionable seaside district for Lima's aristocracy. Today it is
Lima's premier Bohemian quarter. Over the past 15 years, Barranco has
made a comeback. Its parks and Republican mansions have been refurbished,
with frequent concerts and cultural shows along its tree-lined streets.
A must-see is the Bridge of Sighs, a favourite hangout for courting
couples, and its seaside drive overlooking the Costa Verde. Further
south lies Chorrillos, famous for beach resorts like La Herradura, featuring
restaurants and eateries known as picanterías. The area has had
rich Republican history that can still be seen today in the sweeping
mansions still found there. Chorrillos is also home to the astronomical
observatory on top of the hill called the Morro Solar, scene of major
battles in the war against Chile (1879-1883). This spot provides visitors
with an unrivalled view of Lima's coastline, stretching from Chorrillos
to Isla San Lorenzo off Callao.
Miraflores
Lima's foremost
tourist and hotel district is without a doubt Miraflores. This district
features spacious modern shopping areas, well-manicured parks and gardens.
Miraflores is known for its many flower-filled parks, but is also famous
for its beaches, that are part of the "Costa Verde" area,
which draw thousands of beach-goers and surfers in summertime. The district
also puts on many cultural events at theatres, cinemas and art galleries,
and boasts a pre-Inca mud-brick temple called the Huaca Pucllana, one
of many archaeological sites still found in Lima. The district teems
with cosy cafés, pubs, restaurants and shops, while its freshly
remodelled parks and gardens attract thousands of Lima inhabitants every
Sunday who congregate to visit art exhibitions, take in open-air concerts
and browse through flea markets.
San
Isidro
This is Lima's "garden'
district, as it stands out for its green zones and exclusive residential
areas. San Isidro also features many of the city's finest restaurants,
hotels and concert halls. Despite the building boom, San Isidro has
kept something of the aristocratic atmosphere for which this suburb
was known for at the beginning of the century. This can be still felt
clearly seen in the area of El Olivar, the centuries-old olive grove
that has kept many of its original trees that stud this popular park.
In recent years, the district has become a major financial quarter as
many banks and businesses left downtown Lima to set up their headquarters
in modern office blocks. The district features a pre-Hispanic temple,
Huallamarca, where concerts and exhibitions area
held occasionally.
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