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The Sacred City
Located in the south-eastern part of the Andes, Cuzco
is Peru's main tourist destination and one of the most important in the
Americas. Known by the Incas as the "home of gods", Cuzco became
the capital of one of the largest pre-Columbian empires: the Tawantinsuyo.
Its name in Quechua, Qosqo means "Navel of the world", which
derives from when the city served as a hub for a vast network of roads
interconnecting virtually the whole of South America, from the southern
part of present-day Colombia to the northern part of what is now
Argentina.
Furthermore, Cuzco is also both a mestizo and colonial
city, with splendid churches and manors built on foundations of elaborately
carved stone. The local cuisine is also something for the traveller to
look forward to, including superb combinations of typical Andean foods,
such as corn, potatoes and chilli pepper, with pork and mutton introduced
by the Spanish. With its vast landscapes, rich history and fascinating
geography, Cuzco is, without a doubt, something all travellers long to
experience.
Legend and History
Although it was settled centuries before the Incas arrived,
it was only during the period of Inca control (1438-1532 AD) that the
Huatanay River basin, upon which Cuzco is built, reached its peak as an
administrative, religious and military centre. The origins of the city
are shrouded in myth and legends, which tell the tale of how the Inca
Empire came into being.
One of the most popular myths, from the chronicles
kept by the Inca Garcilaso de la Vega , that of a mythical couple, Manco
Cápac and Mama Ocllo, who emerged from the waters of Lake Titicaca to
found the city of Cuzco and teach its people how to cultivate the land.
The city was divided into two sectors: an upper area, or Hanan, and a
lower-lying area, or Hurin, references to both the geographical position
of each area and the hierarchical position of their inhabitants.
Moreover, it is also said that the outline of the first city had the
shape of a puma with a falcon's head.
When the Spaniards arrived in 1533, many pre-Hispanic
structures were destroyed or used as foundations for new structures,
which included churches, convents and mansions, built in Baroque or
Renaissance styles. Since then, Cuzco has become one of the most representative
expressions of mestizo culture anywhere in the Americas.
The Cuzco region has two very distinct seasons. One of
these is the rainy season, which runs from November to March with an
average temperature of 12º Celsius. The dry season, which would be the
recommended time to visit, is characterised by cold nights, sunny days and
an average temperature of 9º Celsius. Due to the location of the city
(3,250 masl), soroche, or altitude sickness, is something to be wary of.
Rest and light food are recommended for the first day of your visit, and
warm clothing is vital at night, as are sunscreen lotion and hats during
the day.
Cuzco is easily accessible by air; commercial flights
leave daily from Lima (55 minutes), Arequipa (30 min.) and Juliaca (30
min.). Access by road is also possible (1,050 km from Lima, 450 km from
Arequipa).
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CITY OF CUZCO |
The Main Square
Known in Inca times as Huacaypata, or "the
warriors' square", this was the scene for many key events in Cuzco's
history: it was here that the conquistador Francisco Pizarro declared
Cuzco under Spanish occupation; it was also here that Túpac Amaru I,
leader of the indigenous resistance movement, was killed. The Main Square
also hosted to the spectacular Inti Raymi, or festival of the Sun. With
the arrival of the Spanish the plaza was fringed by beautiful stone
arches, which remain in place to this day. Across from the Main Square are
the Cathedral and La Compañía church.
The Cathedral
Built between 1560 and 1664 out of large slabs of red
granite taken from the Inca fortress of Sacsayhuaman, the Cathedral is one
of the most imposing structures in the city. Its façade built in
Renaissance style, contrasts with the Baroque and silver of its lavish
interior. It also houses important collections of gold and silver work of
the colonial period, elaborately engraved wooden altars and a beautiful
collection of oil on canvas paintings from the Escuela Cuzqueña. On
either side of the slabs of red granite are two small auxiliary chapels.
One of these, the Del Triunfo church, in fact Cuzco's first Cathedral, was
built in 1539 on top of the palace of Inca Wiracocha.
La Compañía Church
Considered one of the finest examples of colonial
Baroque architecture in the Americas, the construction of this church was
begun by the Jesuits in 1576 on what was the Amarucancha, or palace of
Inca Huayna Cápac. The spectacular façade made of carved stone and its
great altar, elaborately covered in cedar and gold leaf and built on top
of an underground chapel, are among its most notable features. The church
also houses a large collection of sculptures and paintings by the most
renowned artists from the Escuela Cuzqueña. The church is flanked by the
Lourdes chapel and the ancient oratory of San Ignacio de Loyola.
La Merced Convent and Church
Built in the sixteenth century and rebuilt
on numerous occasions as a result of earthquakes which have levelled the
city, the convent possesses one of the most beautiful Baroque-Renaissance
cloisters in all Peru, decorated with beautiful choir stalls built in
the plateresque style, and numerous engravings. It also houses colonial
paintings and a very distinctive piece: a tabernacle made of gold and
precious stones measuring 1.3 m long and weighing 22 kg, studded with
a giant mermaid-shaped pearl (the second-largest pearl in the world).
Koricancha and the Convent of Santo Domingo
The convent was built on the spectacular Koricancha
("site of gold"), the most important temple dedicated to the
worship of the Sun and whose walls were plated with sheets of gold. The
convent was built on a foundation of smoothened stone structures -the most
finely crafted in Cuzco- taken from the Inca sanctuary. The façade of the
convent is an excellent example of Renaissance art and its distinctive
spire, built in Baroque style, stands out over the thatched roofs of the
Cuzco skyline. Like the two churches mentioned above, it houses an
impressive collection of canvas paintings from the Escuela Cuzqueña.
San Blas Quarter
Also known as "the craftsmen's district",
San Blas is one of the most picturesque parts of the city, with its long,
inclined narrow streets that zigzag across old estates, which were built
with Inca stones, and its tranquil squares. The church of San Blas, built
in 1563, is the oldest parish church in Cuzco and has an impressive pulpit,
considered to be the colonial period's most outstanding example of engraved
wood. Furthermore this district, with one of the finest views of the city,
is home to the workshops and stores of the most renowned craftsmen in
Cuzco.
Hatun Rumiyoc Street
This is perhaps the best-known street in the city.
One of its cut-stone walls, (which at present forms part of the Palace
of the Archbishop) features the famous 12-cornered stone, which was once
part of the ancient palace of Inca Roca, one of the rulers of
Tawantinsuyo or Inca´s Empire. This lively street is a gateway to the
picturesque San Blas quarter.
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ATRACTIONS IN SURROUNDING
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| SACSAYHUAMAN |
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Sacsayhuaman
An imposing example of Inca military architecture, the
fortress of Sacsayhuaman was built using large slabs of granite to safeguard
the city from attack by Antis, or invading forces from the East. Sacsayhuaman
("satisfied falcon" in Quechua) is made up of three large terraces,
which overlap in a zigzag formation surrounded by enormous stone ramparts
of up to 300 meters in length. Its elevation and proximity to Cuzco, as
well as the dimensions of the stones -up to 5 meters high and weighing
up to 350 tons- made Sacsayhuaman a quarry for certain structures in colonial
Cuzco.
Tampumachay
Also known as the "Baños del Inca" or the
Inca baths, Tampumachay was apparently a site dedicated to the worship of
water and a resting-place for the Inca monarch. Among its most notable
features are its system of aqueducts, canals and cascades carved in stone,
designed to channel water flowing from a nearby spring. According to
experts, Tampumachay was also a kind of royal garden, abounding in
ornamental vegetation and fed by an intricate network of canals.
Kenko and Puca Pucara
Kenko is a ritual site built on a sole outcrop of limestone,
with underground galleries and a semicircular amphitheatre. Puca Pucara
(in Quechua, "red fortress"), was a military installation
made up of stairways, terraces and large walls which once formed part
of the capital's defence system. Both structures are part of the archaeological
circuit near the city of Cuzco.
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SACRED VALLEY OF THE INCAS |
Just an hour's drive from Cuzco, the Urubamba Valley,
or Sacred Valley of the Incas, is a setting of picturesque communities,
impressive terraces and many important archaeological sites. Dominated by
the imposing peaks of the Vilcanota mountain range, the valley has been
the storehouse for agricultural products for the city of Cuzco since Inca
times, and today is famous for being home to maize cobs with the largest
kernels in the world. The valley includes the area between the Inca
communities of Písac and Ollantaytambo. Its mild weather and particular
geography make it ideal for outdoor sports enthusiasts to practice
rafting, mountain bike-riding, hang-gliding and trekking.
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PISAC'S MARKET |
Písac
Písac lies 33 kilometres from the city of Cuzco by a
paved road, and has an old quarter, an archaeological site considered one
of the most important in Cuzco, and a modern quarter, dating from the
colonial period. It also has a Sunday market, which attracts thousands of
visitors and people from remote communities, dressed in colourful,
traditional attire. Every Sunday there is the procession of the varayocs,
or mayors, who, at around 9:30 am, go to church to attend the traditional
Mass held in Quechua.
Chinchero
This community is located 28 km from Cuzco on the
paved road to Urubamba. Here lie the remains of what was the royal
hacienda of Túpac Inca Yupanqui, as well as a beautiful colonial temple
built on Inca foundations. Its main attraction, however, is its Sunday
market, which was originally dedicated to the barter of products by the
people of the valley and the upper areas. Nowadays, the market is a real
hub of activity, vibrant with colour and movement which fascinates
tourists with its range of handicrafts and textiles made in true
pre-Columbian style.
Ollantaytambo
A typical Inca community located 21 km from Urubamba
at 2,800 masl, named in honour of the chief Ollanta, who was famous for
courting an Inca princess, daughter of Pachacútec. One of its
best-preserved areas, known as Hanan Huacaypata lies north of the main
square and contains 15 estates built with elegantly crafted stone walls.
Ollantaytambo also features an extensive archaeological site located on
the imposing hillside overlooking the town, containing structures such as
the Temple of the Sun, and the Mañacaray or Royal Hall, the Incahuatana
and the Baños de la Princesa. It also has hotels, restaurants and horses
and mountain bikes for hire. A branch road leading from Ollantaytambo to
the Málaga mountain pass (4,200 masl), goes through towns such as
picturesque Huílloc, home to the renowned wayruros (porters).
Tipon
This picturesque set of terraces, long stairways and
stone canals is located 20 km south of the city. Evidence suggests that
Tipon was part of a royal hacienda belonging to Inca Yahuar Huaca, as
well as a place of worship and agricultural research. An outstanding is
the sense of harmony in the channeling of water via stone structures including
aqueducts (some of which are underground), waterfalls and gullies, indicating
the Incas' knowledge of hydraulics.
Moray
Moray (3,500 masl) lies just 7 km away from Maras, although
the road to it is not always in good condition. This community is famous
for its embedded amphitheatre, formed by four circular terraces which
seem to disappear into the interior of the puna, like an artificial crater.
Evidence seems to suggest that Moray was an important centre of Inca agricultural
research on crops, which was carried out on different sized plots located
at various altitudes (some of which were at more than 100 m underground).
The Andean terraces, built on retaining walls filled with fertile soil
and watered via a complex irrigation system, offer up more than 250 different
types of vegetables and cereals, such as corn, quinoa and kiwicha.
San Pedro de Andahuaylillas
One of the most beautiful colonial towns in the region
has a picturesque main square with leafy pisonay trees hanging overhead,
which is surrounded by old estates. Its main attraction is its distinctive
church, San Pedro de Andahuaylillas, which was built in the seventeenth
century and is considered to be a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Its
interior, elaborately decorated with paintings, is simply breathtaking. It
also houses oil on canvas paintings from the Escuela Cuzqueña and Baroque
altars made of carved
Maras
Maras is a small community 40 kilometres from the city
of Cuzco, on a turnoff from the road to the town of Urubamba. Its main
attraction, apart from its church, that dates from the colonial period,
are the salt mines located near the town which captivate sightseers and,
in particular, photographers. Salt is extracted from mines, which have
been in use since pre-Columbian times. The extraction method employed
involves using an ancient drying process, whereby salt-water, flowing
from an underground stream, is left in the sun in thousands of wells until
it has evaporated, leaving behind only the salt, which is then ready to
be sold or exchanged for provisions. During the summer months (April -
October) the shimmering spectacle offered by the pools is incomparable
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